Before the drums, the prayers

People are always surprised when I tell them a ceremony in our house starts with almost an hour of prayer. Catholic prayers first, then the Priyè Ginen in Kreyòl, French and langaj, the long litany that calls the saints, the lwa and the ancestors, everyone in their proper order. My knees know exactly how long it is.

Nobody is sticking pins in anything. Mostly we are praying, singing, feeding people, and asking Papa Legba to open the gate so the conversation can begin.

Last Saturday my goddaughter led part of the Priyè for the first time. Her voice shook on the first line, and then it didn't. In the corner an old manbo closed her eyes and nodded. That nod is worth more than every movie version of us put together.