Nine steps, three hundred dolls, one patient husband

Navratri started last night, which means our living room is no longer a living room. It is a golu.

For anyone who didn't grow up with it: in many Tamil homes we build a set of steps (always an odd number, we do nine) and cover them with dolls. Gods and goddesses on the top step, then saints, then people going about their lives, then animals and little village scenes at the bottom. The idea, as my paati explained it, is the whole of creation climbing toward the Divine Mother, one step at a time.

My marapachi dolls, the carved wooden bride and groom, came from my grandmother's house in Mylapore in a suitcase, wrapped in my old school uniform. They go up first, every year, before anything else. This year my husband built new steps out of shelving because the old cardboard ones finally gave up. He measured three times. I love him.

Every evening for nine nights we light the lamp, I recite the Lalitha Sahasranama (slowly, the 7pm version, not the heroic 5am version), and whoever visits goes home with sundal and a little bag of betel leaf, kumkum and a bangle. Our Canadian neighbours come every year now, and their daughter has formally requested a cricket player doll for the bottom step. She has been told the cricket player must sit next to the cows.

If you keep a golu, post your steps. I want to see everyone's dolls.